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Overview. You regularly straighten your hair and you are afraid that will affect it in the long run. In this section, Hélène Clauderer answers seven questions you more than likely often ask yourself. |
What problems occur after straightening?
Straightened hair is dry and dull, as if it had lost all of its elasticity and vitality. It breaks at all levels of length, and particularly at the frizzy-straightened junction, but also at the hair’s basis, which proportionally decreases the hair’s general volume. There are also problems regarding the scalp, which is also too dry, and often irritated.
There are multiple post-straightening treatments, some of which are effective, others less so. Some can even end up having a negative impact on the hair’s health. But before discussing compensatory treatments, I think it is important to understand properly the unsettling that the straightening process triggers. It is not a harmless procedure…
What is straightening really about?
Without going into technical details, I would say that the procedure takes place in two steps:
1- The original organisation of the keratin molecules (keratin is the fibre of which our hair is made) is first artificially destroyed with a strongly alkaline product, in order to impose a new structure on the hair, and make it totally malleable. That is done until the hair no longer resists, and is sufficiently straight.
2 - An oxidising product is then applied. It neutralises the initial step (described above) and cements the fibres back into the desired shape.
The impact on the hair
It is double. First, the hair is much more fragile, because, in order to make it malleable, the straightening product had to destroy the protein chains of which the hair’s keratin’s substance was made.
Another consequence is the drying out of the scalp and the hair, because the water molecules that usually fix to the proteins no longer have anything to hook onto. That leads to dandruff and irritations on the whole of the scalp, dry and breaking hair, as well as split ends.
And what about products without sodium hydroxide?
Even products that claim to be free of sodium hydroxide are actually derived from sodium or potassium hydroxide, and although they are less strong, they remain an aggression on the hair. In other words, no matter the products being used, if the straightening is not accompanied by many precautions or followed by intensive care, even the strongest frizzy hair will not resist the process for long.
How to treat frizzy hair
The aim is to restore the hair’s ‘ecology’, which has been profoundly altered by the straightening process. In other words, the immunity that hair has lost needs to be rebuilt, by providing it with proteins and by moisturizing it.
But hydrating does not mean greasing systematically with any product. Some excessively greasy substances prevent the scalp from breathing, which can lead to an increase in dandruff and irritations, sometimes even an asphyxiation of the roots. Animal or mineral greases must therefore be avoided, especially:
Vaseline: it makes the hair heavier without feeding it and excessively greases and blocks the scalp’s pores.
Lanoline: derived from cholesterol, it favours irritations and the secretion of the hormone (DHT) that causes hormonally-induced hair loss. (Cholesterol and Hair Loss)
Glycerin: it attracts moisture and absorbs and keeps the moisture the hair needs.
Treatment
Actually, the best reconstituting products for straightened frizzy hair are protein-based products and plant-based vitamins. They must be mixed with light substances like linseed oil and wheat germs or shea. Only that type of product, if it is strongly enriched with proteins, can penetrate at the heart of the hair and help it rebuild its keratin without making it sticky. Supple and lively hair is a nice thing to have!
Does straightening prevent the hair from growing?
Many women complain that their hair no longer grows since they have started straightening it. However, in principle, the products used for straightening do not affect the roots. Rather, so much of the hair is often broken that it gives the impression that there is less hair, or that it has stopped growing.
The treatment to make up for this consists in nourishing and fixing the hair while boosting the roots. Some plant-based active ingredients, specifically prescribed for regrowing, give strength to new hair and prepare it to better resist to straightening.
| Straightened hair under the microscope |
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If, however, the hair falls beyond normal, it is important to consult a specialist who, in case of a doubt, will be able diagnose whether the hair loss is due to straightening-induced breaking, or to other factors such as hormonal problems, lack of iron, premature braiding…
What can be done for the scalp?
It is essential to bring the pH back to its normal level in order to calm the irritations and prevent or suppress straightening-induced dermatitis. At Centre Clauderer, we use natural vitamins for that purpose, which we combine with regenerating and healing plant extracts, such as Gotu Kola.
You know, when it comes to fixing a traumatised hair, no one has yet come up with anything better than what nature has to offer. It is all about finding the right mix, and the right dosage.
In conclusion, I would say that, in my consultations, I am always surprised by the important budgets young women with frizzy hair spend on it, all for disappointing, sometimes even counterproductive, results. I wish more of them knew about this before spending their money.
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION:
7 Everyday Tips for Your Straightened Frizzy Hair
Frizzy or Semi-Frizzy Hair Loss
Excessively Dry Frizzy Hair: Treating it with Essential Fatty Acids
Dull and Porous Hair
Make your own shampoo : recipes for straightened frizzy hair
What is The Frizzy Hair Growth Daily Pace? Can it Be Accelerated?
FOR TREATMENT:
Clauderer Anti-Hair loss Treatments
Clauderer Method of Treatment for Frizzy or Semi-Frizzy Hair
Clauderer in-Depth Hair Diagnosis: Frizzy or Semi-Frizzy Hair
Treat your Hair to the French Touch! |
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