What's new with natural treatments against hair loss?
Overview.Fully natural vegetable-based formulas to fight hair loss are now available on the market thanks to recent scientific findings. More than a trend, this type of anti hair loss treatment is a response to consumer demand. Hélène Clauderer tells us more about it.
Up until recently, it was impossible to offer products against hair loss that were both effective and natural. This was because of adjuvants, i.e. all the auxiliary substances that were added to a formula’s active ingredients in order to make it bactericidal, stable and homogenous (surfactant, preservative, humidifier, etc.). In fact, such additives were almost impossible to find other than in their synthetic form.
However, for a few years now, several European raw material producers, such as COGNIS (Germany), CRODA (UK), and PROVITAL (Spain), have strongly focused their research on fully vegetable-based adjuvants.
As a result, those innovating companies have made available anti-hair loss plant-based formulas that are both effective and 100% natural, including for the adjuvant part.
What is a cosmetic product
made of?
There are 3 categories to the components of a cosmetic product:
The excipient. A neutral substance (water, oil…) that channels the other components. The active ingredients. They carry out the product’s effectiveness. Adjuvants. They thicken, mix, stabilise, perfume, colour, humidify, and cleanse the product. It is mainly on them that the recent scientific findings have been focused.
Demand for natural cosmetic products is market-based
Hélène Clauderer: There is a reason the most dynamic raw material producers have made such an effort in researching natural cosmetic products for the hair… It is to answer an increasing demand.
That is because the increasing suspicion consumers have for the products they eat has rapidly expanded to the cosmetics they use: makeup, sun cream, hair cream, etc. But it has become even more obvious for products that act under the skin, such as anti hair loss treatments, which penetrate up until the hair follicle and are in direct contact with the internal elements of the body.
This suspicion is actually strongly echoed in the media, especially the Internet, where many websites encourage consumers to be cautious about the ingredients that make their products, and to carefully read the INCI list on the package (more on this to your right) in order to identify the substances that could be dubious for their health.
INCI LIST
( International Nomenclature
of Cosmetic Ingredients )
Created in the US in 1973, this now international nomenclature has been compulsory in Europe since 1998. It classifies, in Latin, the name of the ingredients used in cosmetic products, by decreasing quantitative order. As of 1%, the substances can be mentioned in any particular order.
How does Centre Clauderer fit into this trend?
Hélène Clauderer: By personal conviction, we have always been in favour of natural products, and have always made sure that our active ingredients be such (anti-androgen and 5-alpha reductase inhibiting plant extract, vegetable oils, trace elements…). Our essential oils have also always been 100% pure and natural. We use them a lot, in very concentrated form, in all regrowth products, for their regenerating power on the hair’s stem cells.
Today, the availability on the market of new vegetable-based adjuvants enables us to go even further and to gradually reformulate our entire range, in order to be as close as possible to having it 100% natural. And obviously, we are doing this with absolutely no compromise to our guiding principle: to increase the percentage of vegetable-based ingredients in our products while keeping, and sometimes increasing, the effectiveness of the product against hair loss. This decision has thus brought us to open our list of suppliers to the European companies listed above.
That being said, whenever they meet our new criteria, we also keep smaller producers, based in the south of France, and who are very important to us because of their authentic touch: Laboratoires IES, in Alpes de Provence area, ÉMILE NOËL in Gard, and GOLGEMMA, in Aude.
Red list of substances to avoid
Centre Clauderer website was one of the first to make a red list of substances that it is best to avoid in cosmetic hair products, by decoding INCI indications for its readers. That is because they are written in a very cryptic form to say the least.
ALCOOL DENAT
It is listed as ‘ALCOHOL DENAT’, i.e. alcohol that has been denatured in order to make it unfit for drinking. It is used for its bacteria-fighting properties, and can irritate the hair.
PARABEN
They are preservatives, placed in cosmetic formula in order to prevent the development of fungi and bacteria. On INCI lists, they appear as follows: UTYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN, METHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN. Since 2004, their usage has been subject to controversy, because they are suspected of favouring breast cancer as well as male infertility. Research is currently undertaken to validate or lift those suspicions.
PARAFFIN
Derived from petrol, paraffin is a mineral oil that has no positive impact cosmetically speaking. It is nonetheless very often used, because it is not expensive. As it is not biodegradable, it is considered bad for the body, especially the skin, which it prevents from breathing.
PEG
Derived from petrochemicals, PEG (polyethylene glycol) are surfactants used to humidify, soften or emulsify cosmetic formulas. They are found in the composition of many cleansing products: shampoo, soap, shower gel... They are obtained from ethylene oxide, a highly polluting toxic substance, and could irritate the skin. They can also cause all sorts of allergies, acne and blackheads.
SILICONE
and SILOXANE
They are synthetic resin which are so frequent in hair products today (shampoo, conditioner, hairspray, gel…) that it is difficult to find a product without it. They are found in the INCI list as follows: METHHICONE, DIMETHICONE, SILOXANE... Their qualities? They give the impression of softer and shinier hair, easier to untangle… initially. But, by laying a chemical varnish on the hair, they in fact smother its keratin and block its hydration. Following that, none of the nourishing products that can be applied on healthy hair will get passed that barrier created by the silicone. The hair will quickly become drier, more receptive to dust, and less supple.
SODIUM LAURETH
or LAURYL SULFATE
They are surfactants, also derived from petrochemicals, with a high foaming power. They can strongly irritate fragile skins. They should not be confused with AMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE, which is approved by ECOCERT* and provides the same benefits without the downsides.
Percentage
of natural ingredients in Clauderer treatment products
Below are listed our main treatment products along with their percentage of natural vegetable-based ingredients. Please note: the very low percentage of non-natural corresponds to their synthetic components, which are still impossible to find in their natural form, but are nonetheless certified as « without side effects » by ECOCERT*. Of course all substances of the above red list are excluded.
* ECOCERT is a private organisation of control and certification officially recognised by the government. It provides a label for producers who respect a set of precise specifications with regards to organic agriculture and sustainable development.
Labels: beware of false promises!
Hélène Clauderer: The labels of cosmetic products leads to a tricky question because many brands bypass the rules set by France’s ARPP (see explanation on your right). A product can be labelled, for instance as “100% NATURAL ROSEMARY SHAMPOO“, and thus knowingly mislead the consumer into thinking that the product is fully natural. In fact, the only natural ingredient here is the one outlined on the label (here, rosemary), which often represents no more than 1% of the entire composition…
Because of such abuse, Centre Clauderer has decided to write, on each of its labels, the exact percentage of the end product, to the percentage point.
Our posture of transparency not only includes the Clauderer anti-hair loss range, but also our shampoos. Because their cleansing base is 100% vegetable-based, our shampoos are truly ultra soft (a term often tarnished because too casually used), hypoallergenic and with a neutral pH. That does not keep them from making the hair clean, allowing frequent washing or giving the hair all of the properties expected from the product: easy to untangle and to style, shine…
Who is entitled
to the « Natural Product » label ?
According to the ARPP’s code (France’s Advertising Professional Regulation Authority), a cosmetic product can be qualified as ‘natural’ and presented as such to consumers only if the end product contains a minimum of 95% (per product) of ingredients defined as natural or of “natural origine“, according to the rules in practice (here the European Union).
Source: New Code of Cosmetic Products - ARPP 2009
Clauderer labels: the percentage of natural ingredients in each product is clearly outlined
Clauderer and organic products
Hélène Clauderer: One day, Clauderer products against hair loss may respond to the criteria of the different organic labels. But for now, it is not possible. This is not for a quantitative reason, because our anti-hair loss products are close to 100% natural, and organic labels can admit up to 5% of synthetic ingredients.
Rather, the reason is because those active ingredients, used to stabilise hair loss or trigger new regrowths, are not yet available from organic agriculture.
That being said, an anti-hair loss formula is a complex mix of various substances: each of our products has at least thirty different ingredients that work in synergy with each other. Out of this number, several already come from organic agriculture and are identified as such on the label: lavender essential oils, bay St. Thomas, rosemary, sage and deadnettle extract, sesame oil… So, maybe one day, with the help of research, our end products will be labelled as organic!